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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. But, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.